DIFFERENT PAPERS TO PRINT ON.

Photographic photo papers are designed to produce a high quality image in an effort to best reproduce the photographed object. How good or bad the paper is at meeting this objective will depend on the type of printer, type of ink and of course the subject of this guide; the type of photo paper. In this guide we will explain the various considerations to take into account when evaluating your options.

Photo Paper Finish

  1. Glossy – The most widely used finish is the glossy finish which comes in degree of glossiness from normal to high glossy. The shine from the chemical coating helps distinguish the smallest details of the photograph, however the resulting glare makes viewing the print from certain angles challenging on occasion.
  2. Matt – Depending on the brand, you will come across this finish as Matt or Matte. It is situated on the other side of the scale with zero glossiness. The lack of expensive finish makes the photo paper slightly cheaper to produce and more affordable to buy which helps explain why it is commonly used in brochure and flyer printing. It is also commonly used when printing black and white photos, as glossy finish can diminish from the photo’s credibility.
  3. Satin – The satin finish is situated precisely in the middle, between the glossy and matt finish. It benefits from a level of glossiness, but nowhere near that of the actual glossy finish. Certain brands such as Epson call their range of satin finish “semi-gloss” so the best description will be a toned down glossy finish.
  4. Pearl and Luster – These are offered by the more professional manufactures and represent a type of satin finish with a textured feel. The normal satin or semi-gloss finish is flat, but these two include a delicate texture to make the print feel more special when held.

 

DARK ROOM.

15th DECEMBER 2016.

My first attempt in the dark room was with a stack of metal bricks that was photographed in the studio. There was problems with this first attempt like how dark the photos where and how clear they where.

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The second attempt was far better as I had learned from my mistakes from the first attempt. These came out a lot clearer and better and I even liked the sample ones I did with the different times the light got to it. I scanned both my first attempts and second ones in but have got them in a file for copies. I feel from the two photos i used i prefer the full skull on the photo as it came out a lot clearer and i had had the most practice before completing this one.

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EPSON MFP image

This technique has been my favorite so far as I lied getting hands on when producing the outcomes and actually having to experiment with how much timings each photo needed.

If I have enough time I would like to carry on with other photos I have taken of the roe deer and see how well they all turned out. If I could do this technique again i would of liked to have used a mixed media approach and add stitch to it a well.

 

STUDIO.

STUDIO LIGHTING:

Reflecting umbrellas produce a diffused and soft light due to the larger size of the reflecting surface. They are mounted in such a way that the strobe light is actually facing away from the subject or model. Light flies from the strobe head hitting the inside of the umbrella and then bounces back towards the subject.

There are silver-lined, white, and gold tinted umbrellas. Silver-lined umbrellas are the most efficient and can focus light more  narrowly than the other types. White umbrellas offer a wider spread of reflected light, and gold umbrellas produce a warm tone.Screen Shot 2017-05-11 at 6.23.04 PM.png

SOFTBOX:

Softboxes on the other hand are usually square or rectangular. They are lightweight boxes that come with a reflective inside and a translucent front. Softboxes come in different shapes and sizes and are attached to the front the strobe over the light source. Light emitted from the strobe head gets reflected inside the walls of the softbox and diffused through the box’s translucent front creating a soft, but more focused light source illuminating the model or scene.

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MOONLIGHT.

Compact substitutes for a power pack/flash head combinations. Their size limits their power, but they are often desired for their portability.

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HONEYCOMB GRIDS:

Honeycomb grids, as the name suggests, are basically honeycomb shaped metallic grids that direct the light for a more focused spread. These come in different degrees. The smaller the grid cells the tighter the holes through which the light travels, and in turn the more focused the light becomes.

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“FMP”-NATURE.

NATURE:

The meaning of nature:Screen Shot 2017-06-16 at 15.56.07.png

I have decided to pick nature for my Final Major project. The reason for my decision was because this area of photography has been my favourite and I wanted to see what outcomes I could get after learning about my camera properly and being able to take better photos.

As I go one lots of walks I thought this would be a good opportunity with this theme as it meant i could then pick from a bigger collection of photos to what I would have if I’d done a different theme.

One walk impartially caught my eye when looking at my pictures. As I live in a rural area there are so many places at my door step to go and on this particular day it was really lovely weather I decided to go out and see what I could photograph. On the first contact sheets on the video it shows you most off the pictures I got but through out these pages there are dots of bright orange, these really caught my eye and when looking closer at these they looked really good and because of this I decided to use them for my final pieces. the contacts sheet below the video show the poppies closer up.

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After a lot of time looking through the photos of the orange poppies and editing nine of the photos I eventually decided on three. These have been placed in black A4 frames for my exhibition. They came out really well on glossy paper at reprographics and I am happy with how they turned out. If I was to do this again I would still choose the three I did but probably add a larger one as well as the three in frames IMG_5488.jpg

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EVALUATION.

Overall this course has shown me so many new skills and tips on how to use my camera and get the best results out off it. I have learnt so much on depth of field and how to us this properly and also how to transfer film not photos.

The dark room was probably one of my favourite areas to work in while doing this course and I hope to carry on using it at college. I also found using a micro hence was something I was really interested in because this meant I could take photos of things i wouldn’t usually be able to see. For instance I took photos of fly wings and butterfly wings which turned out to be amazing.

I feel this project could of gone better but because of the time I had with it and having a full time course as well I struggled to manage my time in both.

I’m happy with how my final project worked and I’m pleased with my outcomes. If I could take these photos again I would defiantly use a micro lens because the flowers would of come out more crisp and sharp but because I don’t have one this wasn’t possible at the time.

CAMERA KNOWLEDGE.

CAMERA:

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Image result for canon 750d diagramThe canon 750 is the camera I used throughout my project. This diagram shows everything on this camera.

HISTOGRAM:

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http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/histograms1.htm

  • link to histograms and how they work.
  • the wind mill diagram shows exactly how histograms work and this can be shown on your camera when taking the photo.

DEPTH OF FIELD:

 

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In optics, particularly as it relates to film and photography, depth of field (DOF), also called focus range or effective focus range, is the distance between the nearest and farthest objects in a scene that appear acceptably sharp in an image. Although a lens can precisely focus at only one distance at a time, the decrease in sharpness is gradual on each side of the focused distance, so that within the DOF, the unsharpness is imperceptible under normal viewing conditions.

In some cases, it may be desirable to have the entire image sharp, and a large DOF is appropriate. In other cases, a small DOF may be more effective, emphasizing the subject while de-emphasizing the foreground and background. In cinematography, a large DOF is often called deep focus, and a small DOF is often called shallow focus.-

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field.